With a twinkle in his smiling Irish eyes, the jovial gentleman took me by the arm and in his lilting brogue said, "Cead Mile Failte!" His was Ireland's classic Gaelic greeting that translates, "One Hundred Thousand Welcomes!"
No wonder visitors are enchanted from the moment they first set foot on the "Emerald Isle."
Soon we were joined by three devoted and accomplished horsewomen from the USA, and each in turn was swept off her feet by the warm welcome of Liam Hurley, our private chauffeur and confidant for the coming week. We would cross Ireland with Liam on an equestrian adventure that also provided time for exploring Irish culture and getting to know the fun- loving islanders themselves.
As we drove up Ireland's Atlantic west coast towards our first destination, a horse farm in County Sligo in the heart of "Yeat's Country," we passed flocks of sheep and cows grazing in Kelly-green fields bordered by walls of rough-cut stone. All the while during the four-hour drive, one rainbow after another radiated round about us: magically enhancing our way.
We were sure there would be a "Pot of Gold" awaiting us on our arrival at Horse Holiday Farm, one of the finest of Northwest Ireland's 18 equestrian centers.
After a wonderful night's rest, we awoke to a golden sunrise and discovered we were on a beautiful bluff looking right out to sea; the North Atlantic, with stretches of wide sandy beaches as far as the eye could see.
In the hands of Tilman and Colette Ahnold, Horse Holiday's owners, we consumed a full Irish country breakfast before setting off to their stables to select our mounts.
In all, the Ahnolds have 120 horses, all Irish Hunters, up to 17 hands, well mannered and sure-footed, with lovely temperaments. Before we knew it, we were all saddled up and on a morning trail ride led by Tilman into the Sligo countryside following the ancient stonewalls and hedge rows that separate farms and country properties. Overhead, the skies were a cobalt blue and the temperature was into the 70s although it was mid October.
By noon, we had reached the small village of Grange, and it was time for a break. And what better place to relax than at George Lang's pub, just across from the village church.
Mass had just let out as we dismounted, and the pub was nearly full of elderly male parishioners. Before the first pint of Guinness could be drawn for the American riders, the cross-culture curiosity and conversation had already reached a delightfully high pitch.
With mugs emptied and farewells given, the equestrians remounted and headed out towards the Atlantic shore.
The fast receding tide had left a golden sandy shore some fifty yards wide, affording great runs across the moist, packed sandy bottom which hours earlier had been six feet under water.
The riders and their mounts took to the grand environment and opened up to a full gallop kicking up spray and sand in all directions. After several more exhilarating gallops, horses and riders rested and looked back to shore to be amazed at what they saw. The verdant highlands of County Sligo appeared as a tropical landscape. With the balmy temperature and the scene being bathed in brilliant sunshine, it was as if we were not in Ireland at all, but instead on Hawaiian Maui!
After dismounting for the final time back at Horse Holiday Farm, Liam drove us for sightseeing to the monolithic mesa of Benbulben rising, 2,000 feet above the gentle Sligo countryside. We also viewed the imposing oceanside castle once owned by Lord Louis Mountbatten, and then visited the grave of the beloved Irish poet and playwright William Butler Yeats.
The next day, we again drank in the beauty of the Irish countryside as Liam drove us all across the Emerald Isle to its eastern coast on the Irish Sea.
Our destination was Drumgooland House and Equestrian Centre. Here again we were treated like royalty as we settled into the century-old country house of Frank and Alice McLeigh, equestrians themselves.
Its gracious living and trophy rooms, banquet hall, and Victorian bedrooms afford gracious accommodation. And a well-stocked trout pond graces its outer grounds.
A wonderful old stone outbuilding on the 60-acre estate has been fashioned into two-bedroom suites complete with a private living room and full modern kitchen for long-term equestrian guests. Bedrooms and living room have large inviting fireplaces ideal for family stays.
The horse stables, made of stone as well, are found conveniently near the country house.
Drumgooland offers "Saddle-Up" trail rides that pass through forested parks and nature reserves, as well as over hills and mountain slopes, and along the sandy beaches facing the Irish Sea.
After our final ride, Liam drove us to nearby Down-Patrick to visit the grave of St. Patrick, the revered Patron Saint of Ireland. There we paused at his resting place and whispered a prayer together that we would saddle up again together on good Irish sod and in the caring hands of Liam Hurley.
Dave Bartruff is an award-winning photojournalist who has traveled to more than ninety countries. Based in California, he has been a contributor to The World & I since 1987.